Debu kept us a little more local today. Our first stop was the Mullick Ghat Flower Market in the North of the city. Enroute we passed the Eden Gardens cricket ground which many Indians will tell you is the largest in the world (but the Aussies would disagree). Debu sided with the Aussies but could confirm that the Calcutta floodlights are definitely taller! The Flower market was a sensory onslaught: colour, smell and touch were in overload in this busy and cramped area. Flowers are so important because they are used in every moment of life from the cradle to the grave. Not only as part of the Hindu celebrations and rites, but also in medicinal ways which promote health and well-being. As the flower market sits on the banks of the River Ganges, it was an opportunity to hear about its many uses. We learned that whilst we might see many people sleeping on the streets, for many, this is not because of poverty but more enterprise. People from outside the city come in to work; accommodation would be an unnecessary expense. It’s certainly not a lifestyle of luxury, but the warm nights, a community of like-minded entrepreneurs and the river mean it can help many provide a simple but comfortable lifestyle in a country with land and a pukka (Bengali=concrete/solid) home for families. The river is the heart of daily life and we were shown the ‘locker rooms’. Men hand their clothing to and collect a short stick from attendants who sit in little cubicles. The men then practically and spiritually clean themselves in the river despite its dirty waters – it’s hard to think about washing in the water where bodies are burnt! The miswak sticks are used to brush their teeth. Biting the stick releases medicinal sap and the bark frays into soft bristles perfect for brushing. The men then return to the locker rooms to collect a comb and mirror before paying the attendant and visiting the shrine to pray before a day of work. These communities also have barbers, food vendors, tea sellers and pretty much everything one needs to live the street life.